The Venice Biennale officially opens on Saturday, but crowds of art enthusiasts are already flocking to the previews in a flurry of activity. The curator for this year’s iteration is Adriano Pedrosa, the artistic director of the São Paulo Museum of Art and the man behind the acclaimed show “Indigenous Histories,” which traveled from Brazil to Bergen, Norway, this year. It’s the first time a Latin American curator has taken on the top job, and his theme is “Foreigners Everywhere.” Here are this year’s must-see shows, plus our recommendations on where to eat and stay in Venice.

EAT: Vini da arturo

Arturo is the traditional trattoria in Venice. The menu is no-frills, featuring dishes like fried vinegar pork, beef filet, plain eggplant, and pappardelle con radicchio—absolutely no fish, ever. Ernesto Ballirin, the chef and founder, opened the place 50 years ago and hasn’t changed the offerings in over three decades. There are only nine tables, so be sure to book ahead. And there’s a photo album of all the celebrities who’ve stopped in, which you can ask to see. (vinidaarturo.com)

sTAY: the nolinski hotel

The storied Bauer’s renovation has left a void in Venice. Enter the Nolinski, housed in the city’s former stock exchange building and opening this month. It boasts all the trappings of a great hotel—marble floors, a cocktail bar decked out in red velvet, and large rooms with a view—and it’s just a five-minute walk from Piazza San Marco and La Fenice. Soon to open is the hotel’s restaurant, Palais Royal, presided over by the two-Michelin-star chef Philip Chronopoulos. (nolinskivenezia.com)

See: “Willem de kooning and italy” at gallerie dell’accademia

In 1959, Willem de Kooning spent four months in Rome. He met Alberto Burri and Cy Twombly, and explored Roman relics and Renaissance marvels. This large-scale exhibition explores Italy’s enduring influence on the artist.

see: “nigeria imaginary” at palazzo canal

Eight Nigerian artists are coming together for the country’s national pavilion, titled “Nigeria Imaginary.” Aindrea Emelife, who hand-picked the exhibitors and the theme, is among the Biennale’s youngest-ever curators. “When it comes to Nigerian art, many people still think of painting, specifically figurative painting,” Emelife tells AIR MAIL. “I wanted to select artists with very varied mediums.”

eat: Harry’s bar

No guide to Venice could ever be complete without a mention of Harry’s Bar, which Giuseppe Cipriani opened in 1931. While other Cipriani locations around the world can feel a little garish, this one has retained its Old World charm. Peggy Guggenheim, Ernest Hemingway, and George Clooney have all dined here. For lunch, head to Harry’s Dolci, where you can sit right on the water. (cipriani.com)

see: “ignacy Czwartos: POlish uncensored” at viale IV novembre

Though Ignacy Czwartos was initially supposed to present his paintings in the Polish pavilion, the country’s prime minister Donald Tusk allegedly dropped him from the show because his work was deemed too controversial. In response, Czwartos has organized his own exhibition of 15 paintings off-site on Viale IV Novembre, just a few minutes’ walk away. The paintings invoke long-buried political events between 1945 and 1989 and promise to shock.

SEE: “BERLINDE BRUYCKERE: CITY OF REFUGE III” AT SAN GIORGIO MAGGIORE

The Belgian sculptor Berlinde De Bruyckere works with waxed animal skins, bone, wood, and wool to create haunting works that drift between divine realms and the dailiness of living. This exhibition sees De Bruyckere installing archangels, veiled and hybrid, in dialogue with the church of San Giorgio Maggiore—a magnificent relic of Palladian architecture that sits on a small island opposite the main city. The show, named after a song by Nick Cave, explores the theme of art as a place of refuge.

shop: Giberto Venezia on the rialto bridge

The ranks of Murano glassmakers in Venice are slowly dwindling, which is why it’s so important to support these artisans, especially when they have taste to match their abilities. Enter Giberto Arrivabene, the local artist behind Giberto Venezia and its sublime homeware and glass sculptures. A couple of weeks ago, Arrivabene unveiled a delightful boutique on the Rialto Bridge. Tiny, it’s like walking into a perfectly curated glass box. (giberto.it)

see: “Cosmic garden” at salone verde

At Salone Verde, the Indian artists Madhvi Parekh, Manu Parekh, and Karishma Swali are exhibiting new paintings, sculptures, and hand-embroidery. Swali has worked with 320 artisans from the Chanakya School of Craft to create large-scale textile installations.

see: “chu teh-chun: In nebula” at fondazione cini

The French-Chinese artist Chu Teh-Chun was a man of many firsts. He was the first ethnic Chinese member of the Académie des Beaux-Arts and was also among the first artists to integrate traditional Chinese painting techniques with Western abstract art. Chu died in 2014, at age 93. This exhibition, curated by the venerable art historian Matthieu Poirier, presents some of Chu’s most important paintings.

SEE: “JEAN COCTEAU: JUGGLER’S REVENGE” AT THE PEGGY GUGGENHEIM COLLECTION

At the Peggy Guggenheim Collection, the Jean Cocteau specialist Kenneth E. Silver has put together the first major retrospective in Italy dedicated to the French art world’s “enfant terrible.” Cocteau’s versatility, artistry, and personal style is present in 150 drawings, graphics, jewels, tapestries, books, magazines, photographs, and films.

Drink: Palazzo Experimental

Even if you aren’t staying here, it’s worth stepping into the Experimental Cocktail Club for a drink. The bar is hidden behind an anonymous doorway in the lobby, and you’ll have to either know which door or figure it out. Inside, great music will probably be playing. The menu highlights Italian spirits with French and English twists. Let the barman pick your poison for you. (experimentalcocktailclub.com)

The Venice Biennale will be on from April 20 to November 24

Elena Clavarino is a Senior Editor at air mail

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